**Formerly: Part 3: Mask, Essence/Serum/Ampoule and Eye Cream**
DESCRIPTION OF SKIN CARE STEPS:
In Part 4 of this series, we look at steps 9 and 11 of the skin care routine:
- Cleansing oil (makeup remover)
- face cleaner
- Peeling/Washing Mask*
- turner
- first treatment essence
- Tuchmaske*
- Essence/Serum/Bottle
- eye cream
- MOISTURIZING CREAMS
- sunscreen (during the day)
- SLEEPING MASK/PACKAGE* (Overnight)
(*Does not need to be used daily; usually 1-2x weekly treatment)
STEP 9: HYDRATION
While essences and serums are used to treat various skin problems and concerns, moisturizers aim to increase hydration and hydrate the skin. When your skin is properly hydrated, it can prevent it from becoming too dry or oily, protect sensitive skin, delay and reduce the signs of aging, and improve your skin's texture, tone, and clarity. Failing to use moisturizer can compromise the skin barrier, causing more skin problems and developing more wrinkles.
Moisturizers can be divided into 3 types of main ingredients that form the basis of their texture, consistency, effectiveness and suitability for different skin types, etc.
- moisturizer– Humectants are humectant molecules that can attract and retain moisture from the air or deeper layers of the skin through absorption. When you use a moisturizer with hydrating ingredients, they help build and retain moisture in the upper layers of the skin for a plumping effect and smooth fine lines. Almost all moisturizers, essences, serums or ampoules contain some moisturizer and are great for most skin types.
Common moisturizers to consider: Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, aloe vera, egg white, honey
- stops– Water loss is one of the main causes of dry and dehydrated skin, leading to problems like flaky skin, dry patches and that inner tight feeling. Therefore, occlusives are great for dry skin types as they create a thin film of moisture on the skin that acts as a barrier to retain and prevent water loss. However, occlusives do not add moisture to the skin, they just slow the evaporation of water, so they are used in conjunction with moisturizers that pull water into the skin before the occlusive seals it. This is less suitable for oily and acne-prone skin types because it can be oily, make skin thick and heavy, be comedogenic, and cause breakouts and irritation in sensitive skin.
Common moisturizers to consider:Beeswax, petroleum, mineral oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, paraffin, silicone
- plasticizer– Emollients are ingredients that smooth the surface of the skin by filling in the spaces between skin cells for smoother, suppler, less scaly skin. Emollients fall between a light moisturizer and a heavier occlusive moisturizer. Emollients have similar occlusive properties in that they also prevent water loss (though not as effectively or lastingly), but tend to be thinner and creamier/spreadier than the latter. These creams are excellent for both normal combination skin and slightly dehydrated or dry skin.
Common moisturizers to consider:vegetable oils (coconut, jojoba, almond, sesame, olive, rosehip), squalene, lanolin, paraffin, shea butter, mineral oil
Moisturizers are important regardless of your skin type. Many people with oily skin overlook this step, thinking it will make their oil problem worse, but it's just a matter of finding one that works for your skin. There are a variety of different moisturizers on the market for different skin types and conditions: dry, oily, combination, sensitive, acne-prone, etc. Not all moisturizers are heavy and occlusive.
The proper balance of water and oil is crucial for healthy skin. Many people with superficial oily skin who avoid moisturizers actually have dehydrated skin; It can't store as much water, so the sebaceous glands produce more sebum, also known as oil, to compensate. A moisturizer helps to optimize the water and oil balance. On the other hand, someone with dry skin who applies too many oily, occlusive moisturizers may actually be suffering from dehydration: a lack of water, meaning the skin is still dry and tight. This suggests they need more moisturizing ingredients/steps in their skincare routine, as occlusive products don't add more water, they just keep what little you already have.
Let's take a look at the different types of moisturizers you can find on the market:
- Emulsion– Most Korean skin care lines have an emulsion in their line and this one is a perfect light moisturizer for oily and combination skin as they are very light.
- Lotion - This is also a lighter form of cream, but slightly thicker than an emulsion.
- Ice creams – these are lightweight and absorb quickly as they are more water-based than traditional creams and won’t clog pores – best for oily skin prone to breakouts.
- creams – tend to be softer and more occlusive than the previous categories, as they contain more oils to nourish and retain moisture. They also work best as night creams and are suitable for dry and aging skin.
- facial oils – this category is a little different and sits on the borderline between essence and moisturiser. Oil blends can be designed as a treatment step for specific skin issues, but they are also great for moisturizing dry, flaky skin. Where you apply it in your routine depends on its consistency (some are very light and watery, others can be very oily). It can usually be applied in your essence step, but heavier oils can be mixed with your serum or moisturizer. Some brands even recommend sealing off all of the above steps as the last step in your routine.
Use:Your skin is never the same type and is constantly changing depending on the weather and seasonal climates. It's good to adjust your moisturizer as your skin changes, as a summer gel-cream may not be enough for the colder winters. You can also use a different moisturizer for day and night.
Product recommendation:Belif The True Cream (Aqua Bomb & Moisturizing Bomb), Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream, Primera Watery Oil Free Gel Cream, Primera Alpine Berry Watery Cream, Innisfree Jeju Lava Seawater Cream, Mizon All in One Snail Repair Cream
STEP 11: MASK/SLEEP PACK*
sleep masks(like FTE),They are among the products that have really gained traction in Asia but are less common in the Western market, which is slowly recovering but won't see as much variety.
Sleep masks stem from the knowledge that our skin undergoes a lot of stress and disturbance from environmental factors such as free radicals, pollution, stress, weather, ambient heating and UV rays, etc. during the day. All of these factors can not only alter the skin's moisture/oil balance and texture, but can also cause skin cells to break down, leading to premature signs of aging (including wrinkles, pigmentation, dullness).
However, did you know that nighttime sleep is the most effective time to repair yourself?
- At night, your skin has a higher rate of cell turnover. This means it works harder to reverse skin damage, boost collagen production, and fight free radicals. Skin cell regeneration nearly doubles between 11pm. m. and 4 am so it's important to make sure you're asleep at this time to reap the benefits.
- Also, at night, the skin's temperature is higher and it has a better receptivity, which makes it more receptive to active ingredients as they can penetrate deeper and act more effectively without external intervention. However, on the other hand, during the night more moisture leaves the skin, so it is important to stay well hydrated to hydrate and retain the water that can be lost during sleep.
The above points make a sleep mask so important. In addition to giving your skin an intense boost of hydration, a sleeping mask also helps your skin to repair itself with active ingredients for a smoother, smoother, firmer skin and an improved complexion/reduced opacity when you wake up to the next morning. It differs from a night cream because night creams tend to hydrate, soothe and create a protective barrier on the skin. A sleeping mask does all of that, but has the added function of nourishing and treating the skin, like a serum with active ingredients to fight skin problems.
Applied as the last step of your bedtime skincare routine, this is a treatment product used 1-2 times a week to give your skin that extra boost when needed. However, it can be used more often or even daily if your skin is thin. I personally like to use it 3-4 times a week or daily in winter.
Use: It can be layered over your regular night moisturizer or replaced with your moisturizer when you feel you don't need as much hydration. My favorite thing to do is apply my normal skincare routine early in the evening and before bed I apply a sleeping mask to give that extra moisture and lock in everything else. This way it gives my regular night cream a chance to absorb properly before adding another layer and it doesn't feel too heavy on my skin.
Product recommendation:Laneige Water Sleeping Mask, Innisfree Green Tea Sleeping Pack, Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Mask, Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask, Cosrx Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Mask